L&B Spumoni Gardens, a Brooklyn institution known for its square slices and spumoni, has opened a new location in DUMBO, Brooklyn. The move places it on a block already home to two famous pizzerias: Grimaldi’s Pizzeria and Juliana’s. Despite the proximity to these well-known spots, the management at L&B insists the arrival is not the start of a pizza war.
The new outpost at 46 Old Fulton St. sits directly across from Grimaldi’s and Juliana’s, both popular for their coal-fired, brick-oven pizzas. Nearby, Ignazio’s Pizzeria also serves up pies from a gas-fired brick oven.
General Manager Charlie Cavallo shared that the response to L&B’s new location has been overwhelmingly positive. He emphasized that the competition is friendly, and there’s room for everyone to succeed.
“I think it’s a great mix of restaurants where each has their own thing – their own niche,” Cavallo said. “They’re brick oven. We are gas oven, and we’re known for our ‘upside down’ square pies and our world-famous spumoni.”
Cavallo expressed excitement about the potential for the area to become a “pizza mecca” in New York, noting that it brings together several top pizza spots.
Matt Grogan, co-founder of Juliana’s, agreed with Cavallo’s view, calling L&B’s presence a positive addition to the neighborhood. He said it would attract more people to Old Fulton Street and enhance the overall pizza experience.
“This is probably the most concentrated street in the five boroughs for high-quality pizza,” Grogan added.
Charlotte Testerman, general manager of Grimaldi’s, also welcomed L&B’s arrival. “We look forward to friendly competition and plenty of pizza for visitors and locals alike to enjoy for many years to come,” she said.
While there is currently a spirit of peace on Old Fulton Street, the area has not always been so harmonious. Juliana’s and Grimaldi’s were involved in a long-standing feud. The tension started after coal-oven legend Patsy Grimaldi sold Grimaldi’s in 1998. The business was later relocated due to a dispute with the landlord. In 2012, Grimaldi returned from retirement, partnering with Grogan to open Juliana’s at the original Grimaldi’s location. The rivalry largely ended after Frank Ciolli’s son took over Grimaldi’s operations five years ago.
L&B’s new menu mirrors the offerings at its original Gravesend location, featuring square and round pies, meat dishes, salads, pastas, and its famous spumoni. According to Cavallo, the food tastes the same as the original.
“I grew up on the pizza from the original place,” said Matt Martin, 31, while picking up two square pies and spumoni for his family on Staten Island. “It’s exactly the same, and it brings back all those old memories.”
The new location’s dining area features a blend of brick walls and custom-made wallpaper. The wallpaper showcases photos detailing the history of L&B Spumoni Gardens, starting with founder Ludovico Barbati, who began selling pizza, spumoni, and ices from a horse-drawn wagon in southern Brooklyn before opening the first location in 1939.
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