Pizza Via, which opened in April in the Central West End, marks the third distinct pizzeria venture by Scott Sandler over the past decade. Sandler has continually refined his craft, stripping away distractions between the oven and the customer’s pizza.
Pizza Via, located at 4501 Maryland Avenue, seems almost minimalist. The wood-burning oven has seen various previous tenants in this otherwise residential corner of Maryland and North Taylor avenues. The setup is straightforward: a counter to place your order, tables for dining, and pizzas served in brown cardboard boxes. The dining room is modest, with minimal decor.
Sandler’s journey to Pizza Via was unconventional. A hobbyist baker and self-described “pizza fanatic,” he left a career in real estate investment to open Pizzeoli in 2014. The Soulard restaurant featured a no-nonsense Neapolitan style and a strictly vegetarian menu, reflecting Sandler’s personal ethos.
In 2017, Sandler introduced Pizza Head on the Tower Grove East side of South Grand. This venture focused on New York-style pizza, available as 20-inch whole pies or oversized slices. The menu remained vegetarian, and the counter-service format with a rock soundtrack created a classic slice-joint atmosphere.
After launching Pizza Head, Sandler sold Pizzeoli in late 2017 and Pizza Head in early 2022. Both restaurants have since evolved under new ownership. Pizzeoli has expanded its menu to include meat toppings, while Pizza Head has added a food truck while maintaining its vegetarian focus.
At Pizza Via, Sandler has developed a unique style that blends elements of Neapolitan and New York pizzas. The wood-fired oven imparts a smoky char to the crust, while the dough undergoes a 72-hour fermentation process, resulting in a tangy flavor. The crust is compact and chewy, reminiscent of New York-style pizza. For example, the pie with cup-and-char pepperoni resembles a miniature New York pizza.
Picking up a slice from Pizza Via evokes memories of Naples. The slice’s point droops dramatically, and while you can fold it like a New York slice, the toppings tend to escape quickly.
Pizza enthusiasts may see Pizza Via as a counterpoint to Union Loafers’ acclaimed Neapolitan-ish New York-style pizza. Pizza Via could be described as New York-ish Neapolitan.
Despite being a vegetarian, Sandler offers authentic pork pepperoni at Pizza Via. He serves two types: the cup-and-char style, which crisps around the edges and cradles hot oil, and the King Pepperoni, featuring oversized slices with a sharp, funky flavor. Both pepperoni varieties are complemented by a blend of aged and fresh mozzarella and a touch of Parmesan.
The rest of Pizza Via’s menu is vegetarian, with the exception of the vegan Marinara pie, which features sauce, garlic, basil, and oregano. The Queen Margherita pizza stands out with its combination of fresh and aged mozzarella and Parmesan. The fresh mozzarella persists as distinct, creamy blobs, and when combined with the crust, fresh basil, and house sauce, it epitomizes pizza simplicity.