Gufo, a new Italian restaurant in East Cambridge named after the Italian word for “owl,” welcomes diners with a warm, rustic ambiance. The cozy patio is adorned with string lights, wooden paneling, and well-spaced tables, creating a pleasant atmosphere. From the start, the restaurant promises a high standard with its friendly service and inviting setting.
However, the experience begins on a slightly off note as bread is not served, and the patio’s heat lamps do little to fend off the chill. Despite this, anticipation builds as the food arrives.
The pizza margherita, a classic that every Italian eatery should master, arrives before the other dishes. Although this unconventional serving order might raise eyebrows, it does not detract from the pizza’s appeal.
In the competitive landscape of Boston’s Italian dining scene, Gufo’s margherita stands out. The crust is thin but sturdy, providing a pleasant eating experience. A robust tomato sauce, paired with fresh mozzarella and fragrant basil, forms a solid foundation.
While not the best pizza in the area, Gufo’s margherita is a strong contender. However, it is somewhat marred by an excess of oregano, which overpowers rather than complements the other flavors. Additionally, the cheese, spread uniformly across the pizza, distracts from the traditional charm of individual mozzarella slices. The crust is thick but overly burnt, making it less enjoyable on its own. Despite these minor issues, the pizza is a notable find in Boston.
The standout dish at Gufo is undoubtedly the arancini. The restaurant’s cacio e pepe style arancini is a rare and excellent choice for the Boston area. These perfectly crunchy rice balls strike a fine balance between cheese and rice, with a subtle pepper topping that enhances the flavor. The parmesan adds a pleasing texture, and the blend of cheeses provides a delightful taste experience.
On the other hand, the squid ink pasta is less impressive. The overly spicy ‘nduja butter and lemon sauce clash with the seafood, better suited to a meat dish. The pasta, though thicker than the traditional spaghetti and slightly undercooked, has a pleasant texture and flavor despite the issues with the sauce.
Overall, Gufo represents a step up from many Italian restaurants in the Boston area. The arancini are particularly noteworthy, capturing the essence of fine Italian cuisine. However, the restaurant occasionally falters in the subtleties of Italian cooking, an area where it should refine its approach. If Gufo addresses these minor shortcomings, it has the potential to become a significant player in Boston’s Italian dining scene.