Forget the age-old debate over whether New York or Chicago holds the title of the ultimate pizza destination—California’s pizza scene is now staking its claim, and it’s making waves. Over the past year, a dozen new and exciting pizza spots have emerged in the Bay Area alone. The region’s pizza landscape is constantly evolving, with established favorites like Flour + Water, Che Fico, A16, and Piccino opening new ventures, while fresh newcomers such as Outta Sight, Jules, and June’s in Oakland are rapidly gaining traction. Additionally, long-standing spots like Pizzeria da Laura and Rose Pizzeria in Berkeley continue to deliver quality pies.
In Los Angeles, the scene is equally dynamic. Pizzeria Sei is expanding its innovative omakase-style experience, while the cake-style, square pizza revolution continues to captivate with spots like Quarter Sheets. Even the underground pizza culture in LA, with pop-ups like Lupa Cotta and Fiorelli Pizza, showcases a more experimental and adventurous side of the city’s pizza scene, where mobile wood-fired ovens are creating buzz wherever they go. From the sourdough pies at Bettina in Santa Barbara to the airy, light crusts at Truly Pizza in Orange County, California offers a variety of exceptional pies that highlight the state’s penchant for creativity and innovation.
But amidst this pizza boom, a critical question arises: what exactly defines California pizza? Unlike regional styles like New York, Chicago, or Detroit pizza, California pizza seems almost impossible to pin down. The roots of California pizza trace back to the 1980s when Wolfgang Puck’s Spago restaurant revolutionized the pizza scene by topping his creations with ingredients like smoked salmon. Chef Ed LaDou, who worked at Spago, went on to create the menu for California Pizza Kitchen, introducing the world to the now-iconic barbecue chicken pizza in the 1990s. Later, Nancy Silverton, the 1990 F&W Best New Chef, made her mark with her legendary crispy-style pizzas at Pizzeria Mozza.
For many, California pizza has come to symbolize innovation, with ingredients like sourdough crusts, seasonal produce, and local cheeses and meats taking center stage. In fact, a staple of the state’s pizza culture seems to be its embrace of the unexpected, with pizzas topped with everything from artichokes and goat cheese to broccoli and even the occasional nod to trendy ingredients like truffle oil. As one resident humorously recalls, after proudly announcing they were from San Francisco, a child asked if people in the city really put broccoli on pizza—an idea not lost on Pixar fans. “Of course!” was the reply, and this very irreverence to tradition has helped cement California pizza’s identity.
In San Francisco, Flour + Water Pizza Shop is one of the latest entries to this evolving landscape, set to open in the Mission Rock neighborhood in a matter of weeks. The restaurant’s upcoming debut reflects the city’s recent pizza style evolution, from the Neapolitan craze of 15 years ago to a more modern, American artisanal hybrid approach. The pizza, which incorporates both commercial yeast and slow-cold fermentation, is baked in a deck oven, resulting in a delightful crust that blends the best of New York and Naples-style pizza. Chefs Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow source ingredients both locally and from the Midwest, marrying the two to create inventive flavor combinations, including cacio e pepe pizza with anchovies or a “Hawaiian” version topped with capicola and pineapple. For them, pizza is a “blank canvas,” with room for endless creativity.
Even Aaron Lindell of Quarter Sheets in LA, originally from Michigan, resists labeling his pizza style as strictly Detroit-style. Though he bakes his pies in deep pans reminiscent of the Motor City’s famed square pizza, he adds a touch of sourdough to the dough, giving it a distinct California flair. “People want to talk about California pizza,” Lindell says, but as he points out, it remains more nebulous than ever. The California pizza boom is defined by experimentation and the blending of local and global ingredients, rather than any one fixed style. Right now, it’s a vibrant, ever-evolving mosaic of flavors and influences.
Outta Sight, a new slice shop in Chinatown, San Francisco, adds yet another twist to the pizza revolution with its thin-crust, by-the-slice offerings. Chef Eric Ehler, who proudly calls his creations “San Francisco-style pizza,” sees this trend as a reflection of the city’s culture of breaking down old boundaries. The pies at Outta Sight range from classics like pepperoni and sausage to more unconventional options like Peking duck, butter chicken, or corn cheese. “I’m really happy about [losing the old dogma],” Ehler says, noting that California’s pizza culture now allows chefs to bring in their own influences—from skateboarding to hip-hop, and everything in between.
While it may be impossible to define California pizza in the traditional sense, its appeal lies in its freedom. With no single style dominating, California pizza is about experimentation, seasonality, and community. From Flour + Water’s hybrid dough to Quarter Sheets’ bold, ever-changing menu, the pizza scene here is a far cry from the traditions of New York or Chicago. In fact, as the popularity of California pizza continues to grow, it may very well be the golden state’s willingness to embrace diversity, creativity, and change that defines it. Whether it’s a classic Margherita or a wildly inventive topping combination, there’s no doubt about it: California pizza is having a moment—and it’s only getting better.
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