Portland, once hailed as the best city in America for pizza, is experiencing a renaissance in its pizza culture. This recognition from prominent reviewers and prestigious culinary institutions has left local pizzaiolos both honored and challenged.
Key Point: Portland’s pizza scene has seen tremendous growth, diverging from the traditional New York-style pizzerias. Chefs in the Rose City are now celebrated for their use of seasonal ingredients and a variety of pizza styles.
Industry Insight: Craig Melillo, owner and chef of Gracie’s Apizza, explained to Axios that Portland’s lack of pizza traditions allows for more creative freedom. “Without rules, you can push the boundaries more,” Melillo said.
Background: The city’s pizza acclaim began in 2021 when Bloomberg named it as having the best pies. This sparked some debate online, but many locals already felt this recognition was deserved.
Portland’s artisan pizza scene has been evolving for decades. Established pizzerias such as Apizza Scholls, Nostrana, Lovely’s Fifty Fifty, and Ken’s Artisan Pizza, which opened in the early 2000s, introduced wood-fired and Neapolitan-style pizzas to the city.
Peter Kost, owner of Ken’s Artisan Pizza, which recently made the 50 Top Pizza list, recalled a smaller pizza scene where pizzerias were spread out and each served its neighborhood.
Recent Developments: The city has recently seen a surge in new pizzerias. Newcomers like Hapa Pizza, which features Asian-inspired toppings; Boxcar Pizza, offering vegan Detroit-style options; Cafe Olli, an all-day destination; and No Saint, focusing on Sicilian-style pizzas, have all gained notable attention.
Gabriella Casabianca, owner and sommelier at No Saint, noted the pressure of being in the spotlight. “The lists don’t impact our daily operations, but they increase curiosity about our work,” she said.
Looking Ahead: While Portland’s pizza scene hasn’t reached the iconic status of New York’s, the recent “best” label has heightened expectations. Kost believes it motivates local pizzerias to continue striving for excellence.